Scully, Mayfair: ‘The cooking is vivid, inventive, idiosyncratic’ | Jay Rayner

This week’s review is that rarest of things, a showy restaurant with striking food that justifies its price

Scully, 4 St James’s Market, London SW1Y 4AH (020 3911 6840). Snacks and small plates £8-£14. Large plates £28-£36. Desserts £8-£10. Wines from £32

Last week I reviewed a tiny restaurant in Manchester where a bowl of Tyrolean pasta costs £6 and will sustain you through an Alpine winter. The week before I was banging on about a trattoria in Bristol knocking out three courses for £17. I remind you of these things because, unlike those places, this week’s restaurant will require a chunk of your sterling. It is a fancy place in a fancy development of cream-coloured stone that will never be allowed to discolour. The cheapest bottle of wine this week is £32. The only way you can get out of there for less than £100 at dinner is by not doing it properly. It’s all fur coat and mink-lined knickers.

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from The Guardian http://bit.ly/2LFBiWO